Golden Bay Re-bolting Project
Your favourite Golden Bay climbs need rebolting
Your favourite Golden Bay climbs need re-bolting. A lot of the routes at Paines Ford (Paynes Ford) and Pōhara were established in the 1990s and early 2000s. As you can imagine, the bolts and anchors wear out with use over time. In Pōhara, where the sea is only a few metres away, corroding bolts in particular are a big problem. Also the old expansion bolts that haven't lasted as well as new glued-in ring bolts will.
Unlike establishing a route, re-bolting it is a less than illustrious task. This work happens in the background and many climbers don’t notice it or even think about the necessity of it. For years, local Troy Stevenson, generously spent his time re-bolting a lot of routes at Paines Ford but because there are over 400 routes at Paines and Pōhara a significant number still need to be done. This is a huge and costly task for a small community.
We are asking the thousands of climbers who enjoy climbing in Golden Bay to chip in to help us keep Golden Bay as a world class climbing destination. A small group of locals ('Golden Bay Climbers') will be volunteering to do the work. If you notice any climbs that need priority, please email painesfordrebolting@protonmail.com
$15 funds a bolt
$40 funds an anchor set
$70 funds two bolts and an anchor
$140 funds a climb
Use of funds
We are initially looking to raise $20,000 for the climbs that currently need re-bolting. This will cover 120 anchor sets, 25m of threaded rod, 530 bolts, 70 tubes of glue as well as nuts, washers etc. All labour is voluntary.
Latest update
Rebolting since last update 14 October 2024
A bunch more climbs have new anchors and/or bolts since the last update. A few more new anchors have gone in on Cathedral. Huntly and Palmer Wafer has had all the bolts and anchors replaced, three routes on Cosmic Wonder Crunch too. Jokerman on Why Wall along with a few others there. A couple on Bo Peep too as well as the exciting Status Anxiety between Why and Bo Peep. New Anchors on Rhinocerous and a couple of others on that wall and a couple on Creese Wall too. Check out the photo of the original anchor that's been replaced on Dancing on a Skewer too recently. Also new (recycled) practice/instructing anchors to go along with the one at the base of Little Lost Wall - one on Cosmic Wonder Crunch, one at the left hand end of Seagrass, one on Creese Wall just to the left of Elvis. Thanks in particular to Rich and Andrew for most of the rebolting this year. More planned before things get busy this summer.
Latest donations
Thanks very much for your support Mete. Cheers
Awesome, thanks Anne for your support, it's really appreciated
Brilliant, thanks Dena and James, this will cover the new anchors at Globe that are due to go in soon. Cheers
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