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Pilgrimage for Parkinson's: Walking the Via Podiensis

  • Crossing the Pyrenees

      4 July 2022
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    Day 39: Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 24km. Total 800km. (Give or take as signposts and distances have been a bit variable).

    Surprise - we went over the top! Because we arrived in St Jean slightly ahead of schedule and with the weather forecast to be good, we decided to do the crossing of the pass through the Pyrenees. A magical day, full of Camino moments including the astounding beauty of nature, unexpected reconnections with pilgrim friends we thought we’d lost, and meeting Yulia from Ukraine, a refugee now in Italy, walking to Santiago with the sum total of her worldly goods in her backpack.

    Definitely good to do this stretch at the end of the chemin, with muscles warmed up, as we barely noticed the 1,000m climb. Okay it was a steady climb, but mostly on small back road and well-formed path, and not at all difficult technically.

    Started out at 7am and arrived in Roncesvalles at 3pm in perfect time for the 3.30pm bus back to St Jean - though we had to keep moving at a reasonable pace. So grateful to have made it to the end of this long walk, in good health and without injury - though I can’t say the same for the shoes, which have gone ceremonially in the bin.

    Thanks to all those who have donated to the cause. The walking has done me the world of good and your contributions will help Parkinson’s NZ continue to help me and others like me to help ourselves to live long and healthy lives.

    Ultreia - ever onwards.

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  • Walking in the realm of the mountains

      4 July 2022
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    Day 38: Harambeltz to Saint Jean Pied de Port 26km. Total 776km.

    And so, after six weeks, the final planned day of walking. Fittingly, the day dawned misty and cool. Like reality had been suspended. The weight of expectation was heavy. The mountains, cloaked in mist, hid themselves, but I could sense the enormity of their hidden power surrounding me as I walked. I walked alone for the first four hours, apart from a short early stop for a coffee and chocolatine from the bar-epicerie in Ostabat.

    Missing my boys and peeved at the majestic Pyrenees being invisible after walking so far to see them, I called Tom. He said Beethoven, who was deaf, should be my guide. I should think of myself as walking in the realm rather than the sight of the mountains. “The mountains are still there, Mum - even if you can’t see them.” Profound. Completely changed the rest of my walk.

    I walked on, contented in the realm of the mountains, as they embraced me on the final steps of my journey. Felt a little like a hobbit. Played ‘Into the Misty Mountains Cold’ as I walked on. Fitting. Atmospheric. The clouds held their breath, I held my tears - until after about 15km the heavens opened, and it was a mad dash to get the pack cover and jacket on.

    Walked the second half with Pascal, Patrick and Lucie. No suitable lunch spots to be found so at 1.30pm we resorted to the base of a handy cross. Thank you Lord for our daily bread (baguette and ham sandwich). Several locals passed and tooted. Coffee at St Jean Le Vieux. Then, the last four kilometres to Saint Jean Pied de Port.

    Briefly lost my way before rejoining the path, to walk through the Saint Jacques gate with Pascal, who kindly took my photo. Momentous. And yet just another moment. What next?

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  • What makes a pilgrimage?

      26 June 2022
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    My radio silence over the last couple of weeks has coincided with the second half of the Via Podiensis, where numbers of walkers thin out and the trail becomes something more than just a long hike. We’ve been focused on the walking.

    I’d been pondering on and off for some time what it meant to be on a pilgrimage, and how to define my participation, when a fellow French walker confessed he’d been reflecting on the same.

    In his case, as a member of a hiking club, completing the trail in sections over several years, he had come to the conclusion he is a ‘hiker on the path’.

    For me, I’m not yet sure, but whatever the label and whatever the purpose, it has become, over the days and weeks of relentless walking, whatever the weather and mood, greater than the sum of its parts.

    In the first week, it was a long walk; in the second week, a walking holiday. In the third, a hike. Somewhere around the fourth week it became what I would call a pilgrimage. If only because the landscape became less interesting (cornfields, anyone) and the journey within became more obvious.

    In this last section between Condom and Saint Jean, we meet mostly ‘through walkers’. Those going all the way to Compostela. Or who are, like us, completing a trail. Gone are the day trippers, the holiday walkers and the tourists. The pilgrim spirit remains.

    With just one or possibly two days of walking left after almost six weeks, it will feel strange to finish.

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  • Conques-ering the trail

      5 June 2022
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    Our stop in Conques was an absolute highlight, with a night at the hostellerie at the Abbey.

    You can reserve beds (which we hadn’t) but they also save 10-14 places for pilgrims who just turn up. So we planned our sections strategically to stay just 14km outside Conques the night before, leaving the gite at 6.45am to get to Conques by 10.15am. We were rewarded with the first of the available beds.

    Then, a beautiful sung mass for Ascension Day; a long lunch at a Terasse cafe with a view of the wooded valley, a wander around the cobblestone streets, Vespers, before a wonderful communal dinner with 80 pilgrims in the refectory.

    To finish the evening, a pilgrim service in the Abbey, at which I was privileged to do a reading, a fantastic live description of the frieze over the entrance doors, and an organ recital while we had access to the upper galleries.

    Superb.

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  • Walking with the cows

      2 June 2022
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    One of my main motivations for completing the Camino, through France, at this time, was to coincide with the annual Fete de la Transhumance on the Aubrac plateau, which took place 21-22 May this year.

    The event’s popularity means it is booked out way in advance, so I was pleased, after many hours of emailing and a complete rearrangement of our first week’s itinerary, to secure accommodation for three nights, despite being relatively last minute.

    With six days of long, hot walking under our belt, two rest days were welcome. Though we spent the morning of the first day on a 3-hour guided walk of the plateau; and much of the second day following the cows as they processed through the village and up to their summer pastures.

    A fantastic experience, and we are feeling good, despite already walking more than 100km.

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  • Heading out from Le Puy

      16 May 2022
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    After 25 hours of flying, and three days acclimatising, we set off from Le Puy this morning under blue skies.

    It was an early start, after a sleepless night in the heat and apprehension, as we needed to be up in time for the 7am Pilgrim Mass at the cathedral, which meant breakfast at 6.15am.

    We were astounded that there were so many people at the service. There must have been 2-300 pilgrims - mostly from France, as it turned out, along with a handful of Canadians, a couple of Americans and two New Zealanders! La Nouvelle Zelande receiving applause when we identified ourselves.

    With our credencials in hand, and blessed for the journey, we set out on the first 24km of what will be a 750km test of our physical and mental strength. It felt simultaneously momentous and nondescript.

    We have a long way to go - thank you for your support.

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  • Counting down to departure

      1 May 2022
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    With just over one week to go, I am at the point where I am starting to count down.

    I’m ticking through the last of my preparations, with most things organised, and just a last few bits and pieces to fall into place.

    Yesterday I did a trial pack - it’s tight, but I think it’s going to work! A few things still have to go in and one or two things will be coming out.

    This morning I did a last walk in the hills - around 10km. It’s time to taper off to maintain the fitness without over doing it. Time for a last couple of gym classes this week.

    Last week at work - plenty to sort out in the next six working days, but the end is in sight.

    Thanks to all those who have generously donated. I’ve set an initial target of $5,000 and appreciate the support.

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  • Getting into the spirit of the Camino

      10 April 2022
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    With four weeks to go until we fly out, training is continuing.

    Most weekends I’ll walk around 20km - we’re spoiled for choice here with hill trails around Wellington.

    Today was a 14km walk from Khandallah Park to Karori Park, with an unusually late start allowing for a picnic lunch.

    The perfect opportunity to get into the spirit of the Camino (and test out my travel mug) with a cheeky French rosé.

    Thanks for your donations to Parkinson’s New Zealand - I appreciate it.

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