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Two Old Farts Bike Cape Reinga to Bluff for Napier and Hastings Womens Refuge

  • Wrap up

      12 April 2021

    Well folks its all over and Tony and I have been resting up big time since the completion of the ride. In fact the bikes went into a carton and haven't come out since. Thats not to say they wont. Our butts have recovered, the bruising has gone and all scars (maybe not the mental ones) have healed so maybe we will be on them again. Watch this space.

    It was an amazing journey made all the more so by your fabulous donations. Seriously there was days I would have chucked it all in but knew the money was coming in so just dug deeper and kept peddling. I have learnt that with a heap of swearing, cursing and the right motivation anything can be achieved.

    So a massive thank you to everyone that donated, we appreciate it and I know everyone involved with the Hastings and Napier Womens Refuge certainly does.

    Thanks again,

    Cheers

    Odette

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  • Haast to Bluff - 29 March 2021

      29 March 2021
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    Hi all

    Well by now I guess you all know that we made it to Bluff. 3000km. Arrived here on 26 March so exactly 2mths from the date we started. A bit tired, battered and bruised but the euphoria of finally finishing outweighed everything else ( except my sandfly bitten lip that looked like botox gone wrong in my top lip)

    Back to where I last left off. We did need more than a good nights sleep to get over the Haast Pass but we made it with a fair bit of walking and pushing of the bikes.

    75km later we arrived in Makarora, a tourist centre in the middle of nowhere with a great pub/cafe, and A frame Chalets. Its apparently a great mecca for hunters, fishermen and trampers, especially at the blue pools.

    From there down to Queenstown its just a blur of beautiful mountains lakes and freakin big hills.

    We stayed the night at the Cadrona Pub. Have always wanted to go there and it was just beautiful. Leather couches, garden bar, 3x open fires, rustic furniture and pretty good food. Set us up to get over the Crown Range the next day.

    Actually managed to bike it all except for about the last 200metres near the top. The chubby thighs seemed to have lost the will to keep turning the pedals. After a short walk and a severe talking to they got their act together and managed to cycle me up and over the top. Highest point at 1100meters. The downhill into Arrowtown and then Queenstown was just magic.

    With the torrential rain they had in Aussie we decided to keep moving as whatever Aussie gets we seem to cop about a week later so it was just the one night in Queenstown (prices have really dropped there. At least half what they used to be, its almost a ghost town!!) and then move on.

    Next day was a water taxi to Walter Peak station and bike over the Von Hill 30km (mostly walked that one, I was knackered) and then we still had another 70km to get to Mossburn. Head wind and gravel road, mostly down hill they said. THEY LIED, AGAIN!!!! You would think by now I would know, but no. I believed them. Consequently a lot of shouting and swearing into the distance about their parentage etc.

    The Mossburn pub 10 hours after we set off was a welcome sight.

    After that it was literally downhill to Bluff and we had just had a celebratory glass of bubbles under the sign post and the rain came in so hightailed it to the accomodation where we have been ever since.

    Its been lovely relaxing in Bluff, meeting other travellers and generally doing nothing at all.

    Tomorrow I start on getting the body back to some semblance of normal so thats gunna be a major. Tony is also pleased to hear thats happening, sometimes I think he doesnt recognise me!!!

    Thanks so much to everyone who supported us on this journey and supported the Womens Refuge through the give a little page. It has made everything extra special.

    Love to everyone, hope all is well at home

    Cheers

    Odette and Tony

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  • Kumara to Haast - 19th March

      22 March 2021
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    Hi all

    Hope everyone has been keeping well and there have been no repercussions from the earthquakes. Napier seems so far away at the moment although we are definitely getting towards the end now. It is almost in sight so hope it keeps going ok.

    We did get tickets to the wild food festival but didn't actually get there till about 4pm as it seemed to take a while to cover the 70km from Kumara to Hokitika. The scenery was stunning and all off road as we did the remainder of the Wilderness Trail. Stopped and chatted with Dave, an old dude that lives on the trail and sells tea and coffee (in chipped cups) for $2. Water is boiled on the open fire in an old thermette and if you are lucky theres a bit of milk. Made me appreciate home and my mod cons. Further down the track we had lunch at Cowboy's Paradise. I think the guns have now been confiscated but the bar is still run by three lovely young ladies who like to practise their pole dancing routines. Interesting!!

    The food festival wasn't what I expected but was still enjoyable. Great music and excellent entertainment from ElemnoP and The Feelers plus other bands. Not really any wild food and no craft beer or homemade wine that I could find. Apparently Health and Safety wont let anyone sell wild food anymore and Montieths are the sponsors so beer and wine are very controlled.

    Set off on the Monday for Ross thinking we knew the weather better than the forecasters and it wasn't going to rain. By the time we got to Ross we were soaked to the skin and then some. Cant believe we didn't stay and wait it out. Wish I could blame Tony but I cant. Was my call and on top of that I took us 5km the wrong way. He still hasn't let me off the hook for that!!

    Ross to lake Paringa and onto Haast has all been on state highway 6 which makes for easier riding, especially up and down the hills around fox and franz. I have travelled these roads on a motor bike (a very long time ago) in a car, in the Thundy and now on a bike. Each time it is a different experience. We are certainly seeing a lot more on the bike. The trees seem huge and enclosing. They make so much noise and there is so many broken trees along the side I keep hoping that nothing is going to come down on top of us. There certainly seems to be more bird noise and we have seen a lot of Weka, wood pigeons and falcons. And there is so much water that you don't notice in a car. There is creeks, culverts, rivers, lakes and ponds everywhere. Its mind boggling the amount of water there is over here. Pity it cant be distributed around the rest of country!!

    We have cycled hills, open farmland, thick bush, beaches, wetlands and raging rivers. Amazing scenery all the way. Have had some beautiful views of the mountains but the snow seems very close these days so as we don't have any more clothes we are hightailing it outta here and getting to lower ground.

    We are really enjoying where we are at but please don't think we are doing this in luxury. Last night when we turned up at Lake Paringa the place was technically closed. After several phone calls, some begging and pleading and offering to sleep on the kitchen floor we got a bunk room (that had been used the night before and not cleaned) but were ever so grateful, meant we didn't have to put the tent up. No soap, towels or any extras but who cares.

    My whole routine is out the window anyway these days. Even forgot to brush my hair and couldn't be bothered unpacking everything to get the brush so just put the helmet on and went with it. A bit of sweat, rain and/or wind and you cant tell anyway.

    On a personal basis everything has gone by the board as well. Have run out of body moisturiser so the legs look like crocodile skin. Actually hairy crocodile skin. Tony wont have a bar of loaning me his razor as he only has 1 blade left and he is looking after it. The skin has been sun burnt, wind burnt and lately blasted with rain. I wont need dermabrasion for a while as the rain has taken several layers of skin off. Downhill at 50km hour in the rain will do that every time. Hand cream was absolutely too heavy so the nails are broken and the hands red raw - it is going to take a miracle to get them right. I might be able to sort some of this in Queenstown if we stay a couple of days. Probably need more like a couple if weeks so its not going to happen. The other thing I really have to do is the laundry. Honestly yesterday the blowflys left the dead stinky possum on the road and followed me up the hill. Not a good sign.

    We are currently in Haast and have showered and eaten a full meal (as opposed to last night when we had 2 eggs and 6 ginger-nuts, that Tony begrudgingly shared with me) so am calling it a night as we have to go over Haast Pass tomorrow and thats gunna take a good nights sleep.

    Love to everyone, take care and stay safe.

    Cheers

    Odette and Tony

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  • Fri 12th March - Taparewa to Kumara

      14 March 2021
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    Hi all

    Thought I should send you all another email with a quick update while Tony finishes his beer. We are currently sitting in the sun at Kumara at the Royal Theatre Hotel. Lovely old building that has been beautifully restored. Its really a bit posh for us but they do cater for the Lycra brigade as its right on the Wilderness trail from Greymouth to Ross. Apparently in its heyday Kumara had 47 hotels, 7 banks (to handle the gold) and 3 timber merchants who supplied the wood for the buildings and miners. Now there is 1 hotel, no banks, the gold is from the bikers and absolutely no timber merchants. How things change.

    Anyway last note was from Tapawera where we had 'a lovely restored ensuite cabin' at the local camping ground. Twas not restored and I was not impressed, felt dirty there and although the chef at the pub supposedly catered for 5 star restaurants in Queenstown he/she certainly didn't transfer the skills to Taparewa. Glad to leave the following day.

    Rode 65km to Lake Rotoroa and arrived at the backpackers tired and hungry. Coffee and muffins appeared so all was suddenly right with the world. Great ride through farmland and forest with a few 'saddles' thrown in just to make sure we didnt get lazy. Some stunning views though. Heading into the hills we always hope the trail meanders through the valley. Not very often it does . Usually up and over the saddle!! The lake is beautiful, so still and calm it reflects everything. Didn't swim, the sight of me in my bra and knickers would have scared even the ferocious sand flies away.

    Next day we tackled the Braeburn track and, wait for it, the Braeburn Saddle. A winding trail through a lot of beech forest. Very damp with lots of moss and fern growing right to the track, sooo pretty. Crossed the 5 fords without getting the feet too wet and both managed to stay upright on our bikes. No small feat.

    Into Murchison where we sat out the rain for two days before heading to Springs Junction over the Maruia Saddle (yep another Saddle) but at least it was a sealed road so it was just a matter of grinding away and getting to the top.

    Kerry and John (Christchurch friends) decided to catch up with us in Greymouth so from Springs Junction it was head down, pedals flying and keep going to get up, yep another saddle, the Rahu, and down into Ikamatua so it was then a quick 54km into Greymouth on the Wednesday. Just as well cause the rain came in that day. Not cold, just really, really, really wet on arrival in Greymouth. Thankfully the showers were hot and with a laundry available everything got clean and dry again. So good to catch up with Kerry, John and Molly(the dog that thinks its a human).

    Greymouth really stunned us for two days with fabulous weather. There are some lovely shops, great street art and a lot of history from both the coal mining and the fishing. The bar out to sea looks so dangerous as the boats go out and its quite sobering to read the memorials of all those who have lost their lives on the bar.

    Well guys thats another couple of hundred kms gone, we are definitely at least 2/3 of the way so just have to keep plodding on. Tony has finished his beer so almost time to find a dinner option and get tickets for the wild food festival if we can.

    Stay safe everyone, thinking of you all.

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  • Thurs 4th March - Picton to Tapawera

      4 March 2021
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    Here we go again!

    Really enjoyed the ride over on the ferry, mainly because it was so calm but even so I had downed 2 x sea sick tablets just to make sure. Those bathtubs can get a bit of a roll on in that Cook Strait and I was taking no chances. Consequently I slept most of the way and only really woke up when they said the cafe was about to close. One Steak and Guiness pie (not so much steak) and a lukewarm coffee later and we were disembarking.

    As we dont like biking too late we headed for Smiths Farm, just short of Havelock. Hit those hills out of Picton and just kept coming to a grinding halt. No riding for 4 days and the body protests loudly. On top of that the pie and the stomach were fighting every inch of the way. The stomach won. I kept stopping pretending I wanted photos. Really just needed to suck some air into the lungs to stay alive and keep the pie in place!!

    Moved onto Pelorous Bridge in preparation to tackle the Mangatapu Saddle. It promptly bucketed down for two days so there we stayed in our tiny little air bnb. I think those two days just proved we probably couldn't manage 14 days in quarantine!

    With all the rain we couldn't walk any tracks while we waited and the river was really flooded and very brown so not as stunning as usual.

    Finally got a break with the weather so tossed up between state highway 6 (extremely dangerous with traffic) or the Mangatapu saddle (extremely dangerous for inexperienced riders - us!!) Went for the saddle. HUGE MISTAKE!!!

    Fabulous views from above (yes above) the clouds but the track was a nightmare. Ruts deeper than my knees, boulders, rivers running through the ruts and just so steep. We basically walked up, thought we could relax on the way down but that was worse. Ended up walking a lot of the rough downhill as well and even then still managed to lose the bikes. Tony came off at one stage so now as well as the sore rib he has got a huge bruise on his thigh, a bump on his head, a nick on his nose, a bandage on his knee and a swollen finger. The poor man has totally put his body on the line.

    Once we were off the track the ride was a lot easier as we just followed the Maitai river down into Nelson. Thanks to friends there for a great meal, hot shower and comfy bed.

    West coast area has totally unpredictable weather so as today was fine we struck out for Tapawera. Fabulous ride (almost flat) following the Great Taste Trail. We have had super bike paths, bridges/swing bridges, coastal scenery, meandering rivers. bush, farmland and even Spooners Tunnel. 1.325km long, pitch black and freezing cold but great to bike through. Another 60 plus km closer to Bluff and no accidents so all in all a great day.

    A huge thank you to all those who have already donated.

    Hope everyone is staying safe under levels 2 and 3.

    Cheers

    Odette and Tony

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  • Sunday 28th Feb - Pahiatua to Wellington WHEW!!

      1 March 2021
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    Im currently sitting in the Wellington - Picton Ferry feeling like I shouldn't be sitting still. Crazy.

    We left Wellington at 1pm today and are about to start the South Island adventure. Looks like there is a few more hills but will face that when we get to it.

    I think the last note was from Pahiatua where we stayed at the Brown Trout. Great Motel. Took some back roads (gravel) down to Eketahuna and got there by midday so relaxed for the afternoon. A bit of retail therapy in the thriving metropolis, photographed the kiwi that was a control point photo, made ourselves at home in the Eketahuna Inn and rode off the next day early so we could get to Solway Park for a spa, a swim and time in the laundry. Cant believe how smelly the clothes get in this heat, along with the constant smell of silage. Must be the time of the year.

    Andrew (Kris's Dad) acted as our tour guide from Masterton to Martinborough and Featherston so it was good to pick up on the local history. Again another beautiful day that made the riding super easy and the scenery stunning. Loved riding through the canopy of Oak trees at Gladstone that were apparently planted as a memorial to the soldiers who didn't return. Quite moving.

    Made Featherston by about 3pm so after a couple of cold drinks Andrew decided to bike back (yep bike back, not train!!) to Masterton and we settled in for a quiet night. Very little sleep as I think I was dreading the Remutaka Ride the next day.

    I couldn't really remember it from last time and had in my mind that it was incredibly steep but turned out not so bad. The track was really well maintained and there were heaps of information boards that gave me an excuse to stop and get my breath back. It was one hellva tough life for the workers who lived and worked the rail line back then.

    A tough headwind but we made it into Wellington by 3.30pm, promptly caught a train to Waikanae where we celebrated the finish off the North Island.

    It has been a fantastic few weeks. Thanks to everyone for the amazing support and words of encouragement. It keeps us going at times.

    Love to all

    Cheers

    Odette and Tony

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  • Sat 20th Feb - Taumarunui to Pahiatua

      27 February 2021
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    Here we go again folks. Will try not to make it too long this time.

    Woke up in Taumaruni to quite a dismal day but a lot better than we expected so donned the cycling shorts and headed for Owhango. A great cafe there so Tony filled up on pancakes and cream but I decided to wait for our pre ordered dinner at the Blue Duck. (Rookie mistake) Apparently it was all down hill to the Blue Duck Cafe - easy. NOT TRUE - it is NEVER all downhill.

    The drizzle turned to sheet rain, the road turned to gravel and Papa rock, the downhill turned to up hill and I was so wet I could hardly lift the weight of my shoes when we had to push the bikes. Several places we had to dodge fallen branches from the worst wind they have apparently had in a decade and that papa rock just keeps falling off the side of the hills. Several times bits (huge they were, well quite big) fell off either just in front of us or right behind. Bloody scarey!! The only upside of the rain was there was no blow flies, however these were replaced by some sort of hairy flying type insects that congregated in the thousands at various points and kept insisting on flying suicide missions straight at us. Gross things tasted foul and kept thrashing around as I tried to spit them out. A lot of swearing and cursing and trying to keep my mouth shut (not easy for me) but even then ended up with one up my nose!! We made it to Blue Duck Station hungry, wet and sore.

    With the continuous rain over night we decided the Kaiwhakauka track was just too dangerous for us and as the accomodation was booked out and the track closing for the following two days for maintenance we couldn't wait for it to dry out so opted for the jet boat ride to Mangapura landing and a walk into the Bridge to Nowhere. What a truely fabulous area. The bush was stunning and as Ive always wanted to see the bridge it was a real highlight. Will go back next year and bike that part of the track again.

    The jet boat was awesome with lots of stops pointing out the history of the area so worth every penny. A night at the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge was absolute luxury compared to the previous night so made the most of it.

    The next day of biking took us from Pipiriki to Whanganui, quite a long day on the bike with a couple of bloody big climbs but we must be getting better because we seem to be doing less walking. Couple of times the wind was so strong it felt like we had to keep pedalling going down hill just to make headway. There was debris all over the place but as we got closer to Whanganui it died down and we made better time.

    Theres a fabulous new bridge across the river at Upokongaro for cyclists that meets up with a new path all the way into Whanganui. It was great cycling. Lets hope thats where some of Shane Jones money went. Its always good to get off the roads.

    Whanganui was a great rest stop for two nights, we both had a manicure/pedicure and caught up on some cafe time while we had the bikes checked over just to make sure everything was still good. So far no problems.

    From Whanganui we diverted slightly from the path to call into friends place in Sanson for a lovely night, a fabulous hot shower, dinner, breakfast and my black pudding sandwich for lunch today. I decided to eat it once we hit the top of the Pahiatua track and Im sure the thought of that sandwich was the only thing that got me up the hill - thats a big hill!!

    Actually I had myself convinced we didn't have to come over the Pahiatua Track but you live and learn.

    3 things I learnt -

    1 Dont read maps without your glasses on (the lines double up on the map and you think there is a road when there is not hence I ruled out the Paihatua track)

    2 Never work out a route after drinking wine (same thing as above. The lines double up etc etc)

    3 I actually have bones in my butt. Always thought it was just lumps of fat. Today I realised this is not true and that the right side is bonier than the left. Hows that for an interesting fact to finish up on

    Hope everyone is well, staying safe and keeping out of trouble

    Cheers

    Odette and Tony

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  • Thurs 4th Feb - Opononi to Pouto Point

      27 February 2021
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    Hi all

    Well once again I have a bit of time to fill in so thought I would send a message.

    Our night at Namea (Footsteps of Kupe) turned out to be brilliant. Im sure Shane Jones invested heavily into so we made the most of it. Fabulous carvings, enthusiastic actors, beautiful singing and the welcome was outstanding. The theatre was state of the art with a lot of effects. Felt like I was battling the waves with Kupe and fighting the demons, especially when the tentacles of the serpent wrapped around the back of my legs. Frightened the living daylights outta me. Anyway definitely worth the visit.

    Our night in the tent was interesting. You all know how we love the electric blanket well I froze my butt off and it wasn't even really cold!! Geez we are way up north and its the middle of summer!! Who would have thought? Even the goat in the kennel next to us was warmer. The tent is fine, the mattress is fine but the sleeping bags that we had for our African trip were not fine. I had a merino singlet, merino cycling top (clean) and my fleece jacket on. Woke up in the night put the trackies and socks on and if I could have found Tonys beanie that would have been on as well!!!. Priority for Auckland - get new sleeping bags as the accomodation options are few and far between.

    Anyway left Opononi about 10am and decided to go for Dargaville through the Waipouna Forest, via Tane Mahuta. He is still standing and although we wanted to get a night tour around the area however there was no accomodation and the tour was closed for the long weekend. Go figure!!

    Wow there was some hills in that area. My chubby little legs certainly put in some work. Just wish I had taken up on the offer of those spin classes for training before we left. Some of the stages Im sure I was only going at walking pace if that. I couldn't even outrun the blow flies that hung around me. Probably attracted by my hot sweaty unwashed clothes!! For every uphill there is usually a downhill so that always helps. Have got to get Tony to stop braking and just freewheel and enjoy the speed. The actual forest is stunning so at least in amongst all that huffing and puffing there is beautiful NZ bushland.

    We did make Dargaville but not until about 8.50pm. (Hadn't figured on the last 15km of gravel road) Right on nightfall so wont get stuck like that again hopefully. Thank god the Dargaville hotel stayed open for us. Hot meal, an ice cold beer and we literally collapsed. The shower was amazing.

    Still the long weekend up this way so spent 2 nights in Dargaville and had the bikes serviced and cleaned. Feel happier now that everything is tightened up and not going to fall apart when Im coming downhill at 50/60km an hour.

    Have just had 2 nights at Pouto Point in a fabulous camp ground. Great views, excellent swimming and a super 4 wheel drive excursion. Took a quad bike tour (me driving and poor Tony scared on the back) for about 3 hours along the beach and through the dunes to the light house. Amazing sand dunes here. Constantly on the move. Honestly they looked just like the Sahara desert sands. John the guide filled us in with all the shipwreck stories and general goings on in the area so was fascinating, although a bit of a worry when we are sailing the same route the next day!!

    Thank goodness it turned out to be calm and a great crossing. The bathtub boat arrived to pick us up about 10am and as you can see we set sail.

    Hope everyone is well, have no idea whats going on in the world. It is thin on news up this way. Take care everyone

    Cheers

    Odette and Tony

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  • Sat 30th Jan - Cape to Opononi

      27 February 2021
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    This journey from the Cape to Bluff so far has been one leap of faith to the next starting with the flight out of Auckland.

    Arrived at Barrier Air for check in and were told the bikes had to come out of the boxes so in a corner of the airport we unpacked. It was spread everywhere and I had no idea how to repack it to fit on the plane. Eventually they agreed to take the panniers in the hold so that solved that. The bikes had to have both wheels off to fit in the hold sideways. It was so small. Our seats directly behind the pilots (kids!!) gave us a birds eye view of everything they did, every red winky light and every dip of the wings. Seriously at one point Im sure I could see the birds in the trees below.

    Our local driver remembered to pick us up and got to the motel (right next door to the volunteer firebrigade) with no hassles. Not a peaceful night but at 8am he was back and we set off the the Cape. By 10am he had deserted us at the lighthouse and everything suddenly got real. Another moment that poor Tony can blame me for!!

    The Cape and beach are seriously beautiful but after 9 hours of riding, buses flying past and 4 wheel drives just out for the day I was over it, so were my legs and so was my arse. Hence 2 nights in a peaceful lodge in Ahipara sleeping and not doing much else.

    Ahipara to Rawene proved to have some stunning views but to get stunning views there is usually steep hills. Head down bum up and when we couldnt pedal anymore we walked. Not on the main road, a gravel short cut (ha ha) so very quiet and quite eerie. Still we kept going (well Tony came a cropper on the down hill once but it appears theres no concussion so all good) and finally made it to the ferry for 6pm to Rawene. $2 each and we were ferried across the Hokianga Habour marvelling at the fact we didn't have to bike around the long way. A bnb for the night but it was a bed and the owner was Nadia from Russia so had a good chat about my pickled tomato recipe (from Russia). Turns out our vinegar is useless, not my fault the tomatoes tasted not so great.

    Today was a short ride/walk to Opononi. Wanted to go to Omapere but theres a concert on, a big wedding and Auckland anniversary so absolutely no accomodation. Make up for it with a big day tomorrow. Watch this space.

    We have had to put the tent up tonight so dont know how it will go. Was going to go to the pub later but the pubs all closed off for the sold out concert so it was lean on the tree beside the tent to a scoff a beer from the local 4 square.

    Living the dream people.

    Odette

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